Before arriving in this land, I never considered Central Asia as a life destination to check off. Before the trip, I read Erica Fatland’s Central Asian Chronicles, which described Central Asia about ten years ago, when transportation and accommodation were somewhat inconvenient. Now Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan both support Yandex taxi services and have high-speed trains connecting major cities, posing little obstacle for independent travelers. Yet at the same time, many historical traces remain, such as the use of Russian. I want to document this ten-plus-day journey from the perspective of a first-time visitor.

Before the Trip

I initially planned to take an overnight train from Almaty to Tashkent but gave up due to a tight schedule, opting for flights with stopovers in both countries instead. However, trains were still used within Uzbekistan because trains run infrequently, so tickets were purchased about a month in advance. Uzbekistan has its own version of “12306” ticketing system, but it is less mature than China’s, so some patience is necessary.

Other preparations were minimal. At local airports, you can exchange any major currency or buy SIM cards from different phone companies. The airports are busy with backpackers, so overall, independent travel is quite friendly here.

Almaty

Upon arriving in Almaty, the city gave me a somewhat European feeling, perhaps due to air that is crisper compared to China. On the first day, I visited two must-see tourist spots: the Ascension Cathedral and Green Bazaar. The Ascension Cathedral is an Eastern Orthodox church that looks simpler from the outside than the intricate interior; pigeons are abundant nearby. If free on weekends, one might not need to go all the way to London to feed pigeons—Almaty will do. The Green Bazaar is a local market housed in a two-story building selling various agricultural products. If you enjoy pomegranate juice, you are in luck—the freshly squeezed juice carries a slight astringency that is truly captivating.

Almaty also bears many signs of Chinese outbound enterprises, with many BYD and Li Auto cars seen in the city. For milk tea lovers, options like Wedrink and Mixue Ice Tea are available. What surprised me most was seeing the Haier building lit up brightly at night when visiting Kok Tobe.

Compared to Uzbekistan’s architectural diversity, Kazakhstan offers richer natural tourism resources. Several large travel agencies operate special tour buses taking you to see two lakes and a canyon in one day. The two lakes are Kolsay Lake and Kaindy Lake, and the canyon is the Charyn Canyon. Kaindy Lake is special because geological shifts have submerged water cypress trees, creating a unique lake view. For me, the tranquility of Kolsay Lake was more enjoyable. My one suggestion: if your schedule allows, don’t try to see both lakes and the canyon in one day. Split it over two days and spend a night at Kolsay Lake for a better overall experience. We missed a clear view of Charyn Canyon because it got dark.

On the last day in Almaty, I visited Alatau National Park. Though the weather at the mountain base was gloomy, halfway up the cable car ride to the viewing platform, the clouds parted and sunlight streamed down. The third cable car segment was closed that day, so viewing the snow-capped mountains was limited to the second platform. I heard Alatau National Park is mainly a ski park, and the open cable cars facilitate skiers carrying their gear.

Bukhara

After a stopover in Tashkent, the second city visited was Bukhara. From the guesthouse in the old city, all key sights were within walking distance. The density of spots made me feel like this place was almost a film set made for tourists. First stop was the famous Four Minarets Mosque, the cover location of Lonely Planet that drew many travelers to Central Asia. The mosque itself is not large but very photogenic.

Then I checked out the Poolside Square, with the statue of Afanti, restaurants, Bolo Hazu Mosque, and many small shops selling souvenirs. Poolside Square felt like the most relaxed spot in all of Bukhara. Perhaps ordering a coffee and spending an afternoon at the poolside café is a worthy indulgence. Further ahead is the Kalon architectural complex. The towering minaret is the only building that Genghis Khan did not destroy during his conquest—a testament that truly great things transcend cultures.

In Bukhara, I tried a famous trendy restaurant and also wandered into small local shops. One carpet shop’s plov (hand-pulled pilaf) has stuck with me—the aroma of mutton tail fat was strong and the first bite very satisfying. It is freshly cooked at noon every day, so if you arrive too early or late, you might miss it.

Samarkand

The second stop in Uzbekistan was Samarkand. I stayed near the very central Registan Square. At night, the square hosts a light show: the first half is simple lighting shifts, and the second half features projections of national symbols of different countries. The atmosphere in the daytime is quite different. Next to the square, there is an ice cream shop where many buy gelato and leisurely enjoy it by the side.

Two must-see sites in Samarkand are the Shahi-Zinda Mausoleum and Bibi-Khanym Mosque. Shahi-Zinda features Samarkand’s most stunning blue corridor and attracts international visitors. It houses many royal family members; the name means “eternal life.” Many picture-perfect scenes are here, but for a photo without crowds, come early morning. Bibi-Khanym Mosque, built by Timur, amazes with its intricate domes. I sat quietly on a bench next to it for quite a while.

There is also a hidden gem: renting a car to visit Shakhrisabz, Timur’s summer palace. The destination resembles a mini Bukhara with a ruined and unrestored madrasa. There is a statue of Timur that complements the one in central Samarkand. The best part of this trip is the mountain-crossing road, where the car winds its way up cliffs and steep slopes.

The best barbecue I ate was in Samarkand, near Registan Square, in a small restaurant. The offerings were few but well-priced. If you are tired of plov, try local grilled meat instead, full of the scent of wood fire.

Tashkent

The last stop was back in Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan. Time was limited, just enough to visit the famously beautiful metro stations and an applied arts museum filled with local specialties. The metro stations, a legacy from the Soviet era, feature stunning architecture and artistic decoration. I only had time for the Cosmonaut station.

The applied arts museum has many local crafts, including miniature, a Central Asian art form known for its intricate detail. If you want to buy such paintings, consider purchasing them in Bukhara. However, the delicate level in the museum surpasses what you can buy, and bargaining on price is common. Local sellers almost always negotiate prices—it depends on your courage to bargain.

Return Trip

I took a late flight from Tashkent back home, rushing to work the next day. Central Asia was mysterious to me before this trip; even when I told friends about my plan, their first question was whether it was safe to travel there. After truly experiencing the local customs and culture, this land gave me complex feelings. It preserves cultural heritage from the ancient Silk Road, features Russian language and architecture from the Soviet era, and even bears traces of Chinese private enterprises going overseas.

Perhaps this is the real Central Asia today.